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Step-by-step techniques

Copy a Garment You Love (Without Unpicking It)

How to copy clothes without taking them apart: rub-off methods, a side-by-side comparison and a made-to-measure alternative to recreate your favourite piece.

Glass-head pins, a pincushion and red thread around a sheet of pattern paper

Yes, you can copy clothes without taking them apart, never cutting or unpicking a single seam. Copying a garment means reproducing its pattern (all its fabric pieces laid flat) so you can sew it again exactly, in the fabric of your choice. The good news: your favourite piece stays intact.

There are three main approaches. Tracing: you trace the outlines onto paper, pin by pin, which is the classic way to rub off a pattern from a garment. Measuring flat: you take the measurements piece by piece to rebuild the pattern. And the made-to-measure copy from a photo, which rebuilds the pattern from a photo and your body measurements.

Recreating a garment exactly without a pattern mostly takes method and a little patience. The simpler the piece (a T-shirt, a straight skirt), the quicker the rub-off; a lined or pleated dress has to be earned. Either way, the aim is the same: accurate pieces, with their seam allowances added, ready to be cut from new fabric.

Can you really copy clothes without taking them apart?

Yes, and it is even the golden rule of experienced sewists: you never sacrifice a piece you love. Unpicking a garment completely to take its pattern works, but it cannot be undone, and it is best kept for pieces that are already past wearing.

For a garment you still wear, you work "on top of it": you pin, you measure, you photograph. The seams stay closed and the piece goes back into your wardrobe intact. The only thing you take from it is information: lengths, widths, curves, the position of darts and pockets.

Ready to go from reading to sewing? The verdict on your photo costs you nothing: you only pay when you order the pattern.

Create my made-to-measure pattern

How do you rub off a pattern and recreate a garment exactly?

The tracing method (pins and paper)

You lay each area of the garment on a sheet (brown paper, pattern paper or non-woven tracing material). With a tracing wheel, or pins pushed in along the seams, you transfer the outlines piece by piece: front, back, sleeve, collar. Then you join up the points, true the curves with a ruler and add the seam allowances. Precise and inexpensive, but painstaking.

Measuring flat (taking the measurements)

Rather than tracing, you measure: shoulder width, half the bust width of the piece, sleeve length and width, armhole depth. You then rebuild the pattern on paper from those measurements and the rules of pattern cutting. This is how pattern cutters work; it assumes you know how a garment is constructed.

The made-to-measure copy (from a photo)

The newest approach: from a photo of the garment (or an inspiration you spotted elsewhere) and your measurements, the studio rebuilds a complete pattern in your size, with numbered pieces and seam allowances included. No cutting, no tracing; you do not even need to own the original garment. Ideal for recreating a cut you saw in a photo rather than a piece you already have to hand. Our guide explains step by step how to make a sewing pattern from a photo.

Rubbing off by hand or a made-to-measure copy: which to choose?

CriterionBy hand (tracing / measuring flat)Made-to-measure copy from a photo
EquipmentPaper, tracing wheel, pins, tape measureA photo and your measurements
Skills neededSome pattern cutting knowledgeNone
The original garmentEssentialOptional (a photo + your measurements)
Risk of damaging the pieceLow (if you don't unpick)None
Fit to YOUR body shapeTo work out yourselfBuilt in from the start
Complex pieces (lining, pleats)DifficultHandled
TimeSeveral hours, sometimes an eveningChecked by the studio before it is sent
CostA few bits of haberdasheryA few credits

The right choice depends on what you want. Do you want to pass on a skill, understand the construction, and do you have the piece to hand? The hand method is a wonderful education. Do you mostly want to wear the copy, fitted to your figure, without spending the weekend on it? The made-to-measure copy goes straight to the point: that's the idea behind a pattern from a photo of your garment, drafted to your measurements.

"Most people don't give up because it's hard, but because rubbing off by hand puts them off before the first seam is even sewn. Starting from the right measurements is already half the garment done."

The PatronIA studio

How do you avoid mistakes when you clone a garment?

A few habits make the difference between a faithful copy and a garment that doesn't hang right:

  • Rub off each piece separately, flat, without stretching the fabric.
  • Never forget the seam allowances: usually 1 to 1.5 cm on construction seams, and 3 to 4 cm for a hem.
  • Mark the grainline on every piece.
  • Transfer all the markings: notches, darts, centre front, centre back, the position of pockets and buttonholes.
  • Count your pieces before you start: a fitted dress easily has 6 to 12, not counting the lining.
  • Make a toile (a test version in inexpensive fabric, what US sewists call a muslin) before cutting into your good fabric.

Two habits that pay off before you start: taking your measurements properly and understanding ease, so that your copy fits just right, neither too loose nor too tight.

Frequently asked questions

Can you copy a garment without knowing how to draft a pattern?

Yes. Tracing and measuring flat do not ask you to "create" a pattern from scratch, only to be careful. The made-to-measure copy, for its part, gives you a pattern to your measurements directly, checked before it is sent, with no pattern cutting knowledge needed.

Do you have to unpick the garment to copy it?

No, unless it is already past wearing. For a piece you still wear, you rub off the pieces from the outside (pins, measurements, photo) without touching the seams.

How do you trace a pattern from a garment laid flat?

You isolate each piece (front, back, sleeve), lay it really flat on paper, transfer its outlines and markings, then add the seam allowances. You true the curves with a ruler or a French curve.

Can you clone a garment from a photo?

Yes. From a photo and your measurements, it is now possible to rebuild a complete pattern in your size without physically owning the garment: handy for recreating a cut you spotted online.

How much seam allowance should you add?

Usually 1 to 1.5 cm on construction seams and 3 to 4 cm for hems. Mark them clearly: a rub-off without seam allowances gives you a garment that is too small.


What if you started from a photo? Find the piece you love, enter your measurements, and let our online studio turn them into a made-to-measure pattern with its sewing instructions, checked before they are sent. Recreate this piece to my measurements.