Seven hand sewing stitches are enough to do everything: running stitch and tacking to hold pieces together temporarily, backstitch for strong seams, the invisible hem stitch for hems, overcast stitch to stop fraying, ladder stitch to close an opening, and blanket stitch to bind or decorate an edge. A needle, some thread and these seven movements: that is the complete toolkit of hand sewing.
Sewing by hand is not just for people who don't have a machine. It is in fact essential for neat finishes, invisible hems, mending and small alterations, wherever the machine can't go. Here are the seven basic hand stitches for beginners, from the simplest to the most precise.
What are the basic hand sewing stitches?
Before going into each one, here is an overview: what each stitch is for, and how difficult it is. Keep this table to hand, it is the map for everything that follows.
| Stitch | What it is for | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Running stitch | Quick gathering, temporary holding, fast joining | Very easy |
| Tacking (basting) | Holding pieces before the final seam | Very easy |
| Backstitch | Strong seams by hand | Easy |
| Invisible hem stitch | Discreet hems | Medium |
| Overcast stitch | Stopping an edge from fraying | Easy |
| Ladder stitch | Closing an opening from the outside | Medium |
| Blanket stitch | Binding, finishing, decorating | Medium |
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Create my made-to-measure patternRunning stitch and tacking
Running stitch is the very first stitch you learn: the needle goes in and out along a straight line, making small, even stitches, over and under. You use it to gather fabric, to hold layers loosely or to join two layers quickly where strength doesn't matter.
Its most useful variation is tacking (called basting in the US): a running stitch with long gaps, in a contrasting thread, which temporarily holds two pieces together before they are sewn for good on the machine. You remove it afterwards. Tacking seems like a waste of time when you are starting out, but it is quite the opposite: well-placed tacking stops the layers from slipping, and gives you a perfectly neat final seam.
Backstitch, the strongest stitch by hand
Backstitch is the strongest stitch you can sew by hand: it imitates a machine seam. The principle: on the surface, you stitch back one stitch, to the end of the previous stitch, then, underneath the fabric, you move forward two lengths to come up one stitch further on, which gives a continuous, unbroken and very strong line.
It is the stitch to use for any seam that has to hold: resewing a construction seam that has come undone, firmly joining two pieces without a machine, reinforcing an area under strain. When it comes to mending a garment by hand, backstitch is almost always the one you use.
The invisible hem stitch
The hem stitch fixes a hem without the stitching showing on the right side. You pick up a single thread of the main fabric (a tiny stitch), then stitch into the fold of the hem, spacing the stitches evenly. On the right side the result is almost invisible.
It is the stitch that makes a home-sewn hem pass for a studio finish. It is worth mastering once and for all: you find it on every neat hem, as our guide to sewing a hem explains. It works wonders on the hem of smart trousers, sewn for instance from a trouser pattern made to your measurements.
Overcast stitch, to stop fraying
Overcast stitch (also called whipstitch) is worked over a raw edge to stop it fraying, when you don't have an overlocker. The needle passes over the edge of the fabric, at an angle, at regular intervals, wrapping the thread around the cut edge. It is the hand equivalent of neatening by machine.
You use it to neaten a seam allowance inside a garment, or to reinforce an edge that is starting to come apart. Quick and simple, it is one of those finishing habits that make a seam last longer.
Ladder stitch, to close an opening
Ladder stitch (also called slip stitch or invisible stitch) closes an opening from the outside, completely invisibly. You use it to close the last gap in a cushion, the lining of a garment, or an opening left to turn a piece right side out.
The principle: you stitch alternately into one edge and then the other, following the fold, like the rungs of a ladder. When you gently pull the thread, the two edges come together and the seam disappears. It is a remarkably discreet stitch, perfect for invisible finishes.
Blanket stitch, to bind and decorate
Blanket stitch binds a raw edge while decorating it: the thread forms a small, even loop along the edge of the fabric. You see it on the edges of wool blankets, on appliqué, or as a decorative finish on a garment.
It has two lives: practical (finishing and reinforcing an edge) and decorative (outlining an edge in a pretty contrasting thread). It is an excellent stitch to start creative sewing with and, along the way, visible mending.
How do you start and finish a hand stitch properly?
Two movements frame every stitch and decide how well it holds:
- At the start: tie a small knot at the end of the thread, or make two stitches on top of each other in the same place to anchor the thread without a visible knot (more discreet on a finish).
- At the end: finish with two or three stitches on top of each other, then slide the needle through the fold of the fabric for a centimetre before cutting, to hide the end of the thread.
"People think you need a machine to sew well. It isn't true: the most beautiful finishes are done by hand. A needle, some thread and seven stitches are enough to finish a garment like a professional studio; you just have to know them."
These stitches are the foundation of all sewing vocabulary. For the other terms you will come across in a tutorial (clipping, neatening, grainline), keep our sewing glossary to hand. And if you are just starting out, our guide on where to begin with sewing gives you the order to learn things in. These techniques fit naturally into the step-by-step path to your first garment.
Frequently asked questions
What is the strongest hand sewing stitch?
Backstitch: by going back at each stitch, it forms a continuous line that imitates a machine seam. It is the stitch to use for any construction seam or repair that has to stand up to strain.
How do you sew an invisible hem by hand?
With the hem stitch: pick up a single thread of the main fabric with each stitch, then stitch into the fold of the hem, spacing the stitches evenly and without pulling the thread tight. On the right side the stitching stays almost invisible.
Which stitch stops fabric fraying without an overlocker?
Overcast stitch (or whipstitch): the needle passes over the raw edge, at an angle, at regular intervals, wrapping the thread around the cut edge. It is the hand equivalent of neatening with an overlocker.
What is tacking for in sewing?
Tacking is a running stitch with long gaps, in a contrasting thread, which temporarily holds two pieces together before the final seam. You remove it afterwards. It stops the layers slipping and makes sure the final seam is neat.
Do you need to sew by hand if you have a machine?
Yes. Neat finishes (an invisible hem, closing a lining with ladder stitch), mending and small alterations are done by hand, wherever the machine can't go. A few basic stitches are enough, and they complement the machine perfectly.
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